What we handle on a drywall project
Drywall sits between framing and finish — the work that determines whether your wall plane is flat and your texture is consistent. Bad drywall shows up forever, in every angle of every camera flash, every time a sunbeam crosses the wall. Good drywall disappears. Most drywall complaints come from rushed taping, missed nail pops, ceilings that wave instead of laying flat, and patches that telegraph because the repair was painted only on the patch instead of the whole plane.
Our scope on a typical drywall project includes:
- Pre-work assessment — if water damage is involved, we identify and confirm the source repair before drywall work starts. If we suspect pre-1980 asbestos in popcorn ceiling or older joint compound, we test before disturbing.
- Demo & removal — cut-back to sound substrate, debris bagged and hauled. Insulation inspected and replaced where wetted or compressed.
- Hang — 1/2" or 5/8" drywall per code (5/8" on garage-to-house common walls, ceilings over 16" o.c. framing, and per fire-rating requirements). Moisture-resistant board (greenboard) in wet areas; cement board (Durock) in shower wet zones. Screwed at correct spacing per code.
- Tape — paper tape on butt and angle joints embedded in joint compound, corner bead (paper-faced or metal) on outside corners, mesh tape on flat joints where appropriate. Self-adhesive mesh on small patches.
- Mud — three-coat finishing standard: tape coat, fill coat, finish coat. Each coat dry overnight between applications. Setting-type compound for cold weather or accelerated schedules where appropriate.
- Sand — pole sander on walls and ceilings, hand-sand corners and details. Dust collection where requested (HEPA vacuum sander attachment). Dust does travel; we contain and clean up but you should plan on dusting the rooms after.
- Texture — smooth finish (Level 5 skim coat for flat repeatable surfaces), light orange peel, knockdown, or matched-to-existing per your selection. Sprayed for large areas, hand-applied for repairs, feathered to blend.
- Prime — high-build PVA primer or shellac-based stain blocker depending on substrate condition. Prime is what locks down the new mud surface so paint does not flash.
- Cleanup — debris hauled, drop cloths removed, surfaces dusted, walk-through with you to mark any final touch-ups.
Water-damage repair sequence
Water-damaged drywall is the most common drywall repair we run and the one with the most ways to go wrong. The sequence:
- Identify the source. Roof leak? Plumbing supply? Plumbing drain? Ice dam? Condensation? We figure out where the water came from.
- Repair the source. The leak is fixed before drywall work starts — either we coordinate the trade fix or we do it.
- Dry the cavity. Cut a small inspection opening, run a dehumidifier and fans for 3-5 days as needed, monitor with a moisture meter. Drywall going back over wet framing or wet insulation just guarantees the mold comes back.
- Replace insulation if wetted. Wet fiberglass loses R-value permanently. Wet cellulose holds moisture and grows mold.
- Cut back to dry studs and joists. Mold-affected drywall (visible black, gray, or green spotting) is removed and disposed of, not patched over.
- Replace, tape, finish, prime, paint. Texture matched. Painted across the whole plane, not just the patch.
Pricing factors
Kansas City drywall work generally falls into these bands:
- Small patch (doorknob hole, single nail pop, 1-4 sq ft) — $200 to $600 minimum-trip pricing.
- Mid-size repair (water-damaged ceiling section, removed-door wall area, 4-15 sq ft) — $500 to $1,500.
- Full-room redo (ceiling and walls, water damage or post-renovation) — $2,000 to $5,000.
- Whole-house new drywall (post-fire, post-flood, major renovation) — $8,000 to $15,000 on a typical 2,000-2,500 sq ft home.
Where your project lands depends on:
- Texture match difficulty — smooth finish (Level 5 skim coat) is the most labor-intensive and adds 20-40% over standard finish. Matching an existing heavy texture also adds time.
- Ceiling height — high ceilings or vaulted ceilings need scaffolding or stilts and add labor hours.
- Asbestos test & abatement — for pre-1980 ceilings: test ($30-$50) is cheap. If positive, abatement by a licensed contractor is a separate scope (typically $1,500-$5,000+ depending on area).
- Source repair — if a roof leak or plumbing leak needs fixing first, that work is scoped separately and we can coordinate or run it ourselves.
- Painting — quoted separately by default, often bundled with the drywall scope at a reduced combined rate.
Why customers pick Tessera for drywall
- You hear back fast. Quote within 24 hours, not three weeks.
- Texture matching is real, not a "good enough" patch that telegraphs.
- Water-damage scope insists on source repair and proper dry-out before patching.
- Pre-1980 ceilings get tested for asbestos before we disturb them.
- Painted across the whole wall plane, not just the patch.
- Three-coat finishing standard, not the rush-job two-coat that shows.